Daniela Agnelli is the fashion director of ST Fashion and Telegraph Magazine. She grew up in Milan, Italy, and had a love of all things fashion from an early age. She moved to London 14 years ago and worked for publications in the UK and the US, including Marie Claire, InStyle and Harper’s Bazaar. She is dedicated to developing new projects and ideas for herself and the Telegraph, where she has worked for the past five years. After fashion, her passions include travelling, golf, yoga and Pilates.
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PARIS: The Spring/Summer Haute Couture Shows in Paris are my favourite defilés. It seems that haute couture always has the better story to tell. Money does not matter and the creations are the best they can get in terms of texture, material, design and of course allure. Hair and make-up are most inspiring and the parties around the defilés are of true elegance. Only very few fashion bloggers, hardly any buyers and just selective clients and the international press make this time of the year in Paris to a must-go place.
Meet the Telegraph’s Fashion Director Daniela Agnelli, who is covering the shows for irmasworld.com.
Good morning, Daniela. How was your night?
Fantastic. After the Armani Show we were all (500 people) invited to an incredible seated dinner at the Palais de Tokyo, where Armani also has an exhibition, which will be on show until Sunday, January 26. Amazing food, which was perfectly done and of course beautiful tableware and decoration, very Armani. It always amazes me how they manage to get the cauliflower just right, even for 500 people.
What did you have for breakfast?
Green tea, orange juice, natural yoghurt and, because I am in Paris, I had a croissant.
The spring/summer haute couture show seems to be the real story. You see designers playing amazingly creative with form (Chanel), make-up (Schiaparelli) and texture (Dior). What do you think?
For most editors it was quite a shock to see sneakers for the haute couture show although they had embroidery and beautiful texture. Chanel and Dior gave haute couture a new angle, let’s see what will be happening next... But maybe that has to do with the trend of down-dressing at the moment.
I also saw lots of flat shoes yesterday when I visited the showrooms for the pre-Fall collections. I really like that trend.
In terms of colour, what did you see?
Chanel used very pale colours against a clean white background, which made the whole atmosphere very sporty-luxurious .The only bright colours were used by Atelier Versace who, by the way, had the most glamourous party with guests like Lady Gaga and Tom Ford, etc., Giambattista Valli had great colour combinations in heavy silk, for example pale pink with bright yellow to pitch black. Schiaparelli was very colourful but to my taste to carnevalesque in terms of make-up and style... Valentino was there to support the show.
And what was your favourite outfit so far?
A marine coloured jumpsuit from Christian Dior, very classic and light evening long dress from Chanel which just flows along your body. I would wear both with flat men’s shoes to work and to go out at night.
How about the make-up, is it becoming more and more a statement in dressing up?
No, the make-up was very natural, very simple and left the models with their pure, beautiful faces, no foundation at Christian Dior. It was matching the sneakers – more sportive, less drama. Except Schiaparelli, who used different coloured powders, like colour pigments in the hair and matte red lipstick.
... and jewellery?
Chanel was without jewellery, which is not very Chanel, Giambattista had amazing cuffs. I will visit the Chanel showroom later on and have a look what happened to jewellery.
Which couture look would you take into everyday life?
The sneakers, they are easy to wear every day.
Which show inspired you most for your next shoot and how will you translate it?
I haven’t seen all of them. Right now I am standing in front of Martin Margiela and I will see Valentino, Viktor & Rolf and many more today and tomorrow.
What else are you up to today?
Many more shows, appointments in the showrooms and in between coffee and lunch with some PR agents.
Any breaks? How will you regain your energy?
No break, not during the shows. Maybe tonight after a dinner I will go to bed and have sweet dreams.
Where do you meet for a coffee or un verre du rouge?
I like the Hotel Bristol for lunch and coffee during the day. They just had a renovation and it is nice to spend time there during the day. At night I prefer the Bar of l’Hotel le Meurice where you meet everybody in a cosy atmosphere.
What do you think about the new Chanel Shop at 31 Rue Cambon?
The opening was beautiful but there were so many people, so I will come back to have a close look and enjoy. Last night one lady bought a red crocodile bag, which must have cost a fortune but everybody was looking and envying her for that shopping experience....
How is the dress code during the haute couture show?
Everybody seems to down-dress. Lots of flat shoes, great big coats, etc., except for the Chanel show, where everybody dressed up and looked glamorous.
Have a nice day and see you later!
PARIS: Daniela Agnelli, our fashion reporter from the London Telegraph, is once again covering Paris Fashion Week for us. She tells IRMA which looks she will take with her for the new season’s fashion shoot and how she will already start wearing right away the spring / summer 2014 collections, even though it is getting cold outside.
Take her styling tips for your own pieces and get ahead with your favorite designers.
Also note her new look: Shoulder-length haircut and very strong eye brows, no make-up.
PARIS: Our Guest Fashion Editor Daniela Agnelli spent her last day in Paris to round up Fashion Week and is now back in London at her desk at the Telegraph Magazine.
After she had been on the go from the start of the Fall Collections in New York until now she is full of new ideas and inspiration for the coming season. I am curious to see how she will translate trends and ideas in her upcoming productions around the world. I will keep you informed and say, ‘Merci beaucoup, Daniela!’
So the fashion shows are nearly over?
The Miu Miu show signed the end of fashion month! Everyone had a big smile on their face! Especially the ones like me who did all 4 cities...
How was your last day?
I started with the big Louis Vuitton show, the only show that starts on time! So even if everyone was still hung-over from the night before (after a very glamorous Valentino dinner and the celebration of the new issue of CR, the new Carnie Roitfield’s magazine at the Hotel Shangri-La). We all made it on time to the show. And I loved it! It was chic and sexy! Loved the idea of a glamour woman in a hotel... I wanted to wear everything!
Then Moncler show right after was so much fun! They built a mountain set with fake snow, Husky dogs and a snow princess on the catwalk! Incredible set design and a great collection too!
I realized I didn’t go to Colette during all week. Colette is a good source of information and inspiration, so I went and I spent a couple of hours looking at books and magazines before heading to the Miu Miu show.
The Miu Miu show was presented at the Palais d’Iena, but the venue had been altered by Rem Koolhaas and the way the set was made, the proportions of the models very elongated, the result was a sort of Poppeye silhouette.
Nice long skirts and coats, visually very nice, but not easy to wear if you are not tall....
What is good about Miuccia Prada is that she always surprises the fashion audience!
I left Paris with a very good and positive feeling for the next season! À la prochaine fois!
PARIS: Today I talked again to guest editor Daniela Agnelli, fashion director of ST Fashion and Telegraph Magazine in London, who reports for IRMASWORLD.COM from the fashion shows in Paris.
How was your week?
My fashion week was very busy. But also very inspiring!
The highlight of the weekend was definitely Céline. The trends that came through showed more of a focus on a feminine silhouette. Which was very different from last season’s slouchy and flat furry sandals. There were also beautiful boots and great bags in the show!
How would you describe the overall direction?
There is a new take on tailoring! Generally shoes at the show are flat big soles and mid-calf boots and great, the legging second skin thigh boots. Most of the shoes this season are more walkable and manageable! And the bags are soft and slouched like a clutch.
How did you like Yves Saint Laurent last night?
I was very disappointed about SL... I thought it was a Top Shop show having a bad day... It was interesting to see the face of everyone dropping from the beginning of the show till the end...
Which accessory was mostly seen?
I think bags are in every single show! Giambattista launched a new one in his show. I went to see the Tabitha Simmons shoe collection and they are amazing.
How about make-up?
Make-up is more focused on the eyes this season and nude on the lips.
Did you read the article about bloggers by Suzy Menkes in The New York Times?
Yes I did. I totally agree with Suzy about bloggers – too many and too much. To be honest I hate them!
The general atmosphere in front of the show is very colourful but less fun then spring/summer because of the cold ...and to be honest, the bloggers are sometimes too aggressive!
Will go to Valentino now... will report later!
PARIS: Guest editor Daniela Agnelli is the fashion director of ST Fashion and Telegraph Magazine. She grew up in Milan, Italy, and had a love of all things fashion from an early age. She moved to London 18 years ago and worked for publications in the UK and the US, including Marie Claire, InStyle and Harper’s Bazaar. She is dedicated to developing new projects and ideas for herself and the Telegraph, where she has worked for the past five years. After fashion, her passions include travelling, golf, yoga and Pilates. She lives in London and reports for IRMASWORLD.COM from the Paris fashion shows.
How was the H&M show on Wednesday night?
I got into Paris and went straight to the H&M show at 9:30 pm. The show was at Musée Rodin, an amazing location! Quite a shock though, considering that this location has always been used for YSL or CD Couture .... and now H&M! Quite extraordinary and probably it’s a sign of the fashion business at the moment!
The show was very well styled and they had all the top models walking on it. From Cara de La Vigne to Joan Small …just to name few. They built a marquee in the garden of the museum and recreated inside different rooms like going to a private home ...at the end of the show the backstage was transformed into a disco dance!
And the morning after: What do you do when waking up in Paris?
In the morning when I wake up I try to organise my day ...look at the schedule and try to understand how to make the most of my day between shows and appointments.
How was your first day in Paris?
Yesterday I saw 5 shows! My first day in Paris! I started with the most awaited show of the season – Alexander Wang for Balenciaga! He showed in an intimate salon on Avenue George V. It was a very beautiful show, quite unexpected Balenciaga. He did a collection respecting the brand’s archive but using a modern silhouette and great tailoring, cocoon coats and jackets with rounded volumes. Very well executed! I thought very grown-up for a 29-year-old master of the street sporty look! Then there was Carven, Balmain, Anne Demeulemester, Rick Owens and Nina Ricci.
The dulcis in fundo of the day was Lanvin! Always a good and happy way to end a long fashion day, especially in a location like the Ecole des Beaux-Arts! It was quite relaxed at the arrival with male ushers serving popcorn and soft drinks and mini bottles of champagne... Night and day was mixed together. The mood was very young and relaxed, even in the shoes, most of them flat!
Can a lipstick put you into a mood for a show?
I am not wearing lipstick at the moment. I went for more neutral look and if I wear it has to be nude! I am more into eyes...
What do you read at the moment?
I am reading a novel from a Spanish writer that my sister gave me to relax my mind in between shows.
If you travelled light, what are your absolute necessities for Paris?
I didn’t have time to unpack my clothes from Milan Fashion Week and repack for Paris....but I added more clothes: another fur coat (Paris is very cold at the moment!), 3 pairs of shoes (more heels and another ankle boot!), and a couple of evening dresses (I had a look of my schedule and there are a few glam dinners and parties coming up...
Who are you seeing tonight?
Tonight after the shows I have drinks at Eddy Borgo show room/apartment and dinner at Vanessa Bruno’s home. Should be fun and cosy!